DAPHNE MAJOR & MINOR

Puerto Ayora












Day 276

Daphne Major and Minor Galagagos

We woke up RED!! Talk about get burnt yesterday on Bartholomew Island....oh dear! We had no idea the sun would be so angry! It didn´t feel that hot.........maybe because we were snorkelling and swimming and didn´t feel it, not sure. My feet were red raw!

Today we were told to be ready for snorkelling again...which we were looking forward to. We were off to Daphne and Punta Carrion which is where we were told we could swim with the sharks......and the manta rays.......

We knew the Daphne Island was the one that looked like it stuck out like dog´s balls..so we were excited to be seeing that.

Sammy seal lion was still in his chair when we arrived at the port this morning..seems he´s taken up residence there and gives a bit of a wave and a flap to show he´s still alive..it´s SO cute!

We actually watched him fall out of the boat...and swim around...and climb up againand plop into his chair! Talkabout an old man seal! It´s just SO funny! And has kept us amused each day!

We sailed on a smaller boat today, for only 6 people. Called King Mariner. Our tour group seems to be diminishing as people go home..some came for 2, 3 and 4 day tours. Our´s was a 5 day tour.

We watched manta ray´s fly out of the water...and passed A LOT of sea lions..about a hundred or so and many many babies. And saw a lot of Darwin´s finches. Such an exciting place .. so prolific with wildlife! We learned about the Island Isabella. It has five volcano´s on it..but it´s a long way from Santa Cruz so it´s not in our itinerary.

These islands, Daphne Major Island and the island that is closeby, Daphne Minor Island are of volcanic origin...about 10 km west of Seymour Island.

We got off and snorkelled on Daphne Major..it wasn´t as exciting underwater as yesterday..but we did sea a sea snake and a sting ray hiding on a rock....

Scary really....

I was really hoping not to see sharks..some of the others really wanted to..but not me. I´m just not keen. Seen too many at the Abrolhos to think they´re remotely friendly! We didn´t see any.....

We were supposed to be going to the Darwin Centre this evening...but we opted to go tomorrow...early, and to go to see the Turtle Farm and Lava Tunnels this afternoon instead.

We weren´t disappointed either. The turtle farm had a variety of species of Tortoises in their natural and wild habitat. One of the tortoise´s was 120 years old!













The natural tunnels or lava tubes as they call them also were about 3 km from Puerto Ayora on the road to Bellavista..

The tunnel we visited is the "Tunnel of Endless Love"! It got it´s name because of the heart shapped hole in the roof!

The Lava Tunnels happened when the lava flowed and the outer part of the stream got cold and hardened...but the liquid magma within continues flowing.

When it stopped flowing empty tubes are left behind.

And this is what happened in Santa Cruz Island where we were staying...leaving an island full of lava tunnels.

We were glad we went to the Turtle Farm and Lava Tunnels..but still wanted to get to the Charles Darwin Centre...

So...we organised for a taxi to come get us at 6am so we could spend an hour there before we leave for the airport..

Can´t miss seeing this famous Charles Darwin Scientific Research Centre!!!!!!

Before bed, we ventured out to the town centre..and i bought myself a galagagos bag to put my head pillow in...because the one that blows up...didn´t blow up..so i had to buy one that is always inflated (has polystyrene balls) and to carry it..i needed a bag. Good excuse! haha It´s a nice bag!!!!!

Cool town....we wandered around for quite a while..and watched the boats...

We´ve had such a great time here!!!!

SAN BARTHOLOMEW ISLAND GALAPAGOS

Galapagos Islands, Eucador











Day 275

San Bartholomew Island

5am start this morning. We were told to be at the bus at 5.30am with our bathers and sunscreen! This time we remembered our towels (yesterday we had bathers but no towels!) Breakfast and lunch was to be on board.

After arriving back at Pueroto Ayora..and spending some time looking out over the port..and SEEING A SEA LION sitting on a chair on a boat that was docked at the small port.....we headed off to San Bartholomew in awe..

It took three and a half hours of cruising to get to our destination (and a bit of sea sickness by one of the group!). We were joined by huge gliding frigate birds hovering over the boat...

Wildlife is so amazing here..and friendly. We´ve found out there are no predators on the island..so they´re all friendly and just look at us as if we´re the curiosity!!!!

Breakfast was a fried egg in a bun..it´s so amazing how these guys cook and serve meals on a boat that holds only 16 people!

We wondered what we were going to see...

And what we saw was an island that looked completely volcanic! (Were we going to swim HERE??) Honestly, it was like walking on a crater! Was funny, because at one stage Greg said..this island is very young..the soil looks fresh..and the guide, with a straight face, said YES it is only a young island...about four million years old! I wondered if he was kidding or not! He wasn´t. Apparently the other islands are much older!

We still haven´t learned much history about the Galagagos..and there are no brochures available. The translation is not good..and the guides don´t give much away. All we know is there are not that many tourists that visit the islands..and they are beautiful. Perhaps we´ll find out more when we visit the Charles Darwin Centre. We were told today...King George lives there..a special tortoise. Can´t wait to see him..apparently he´s the rarest animal on earth because he´s the last of his species.

Meanwhile..we climbed up to the summit of Pinnacle rock, a small island inside Sullivan Bay. From the eastern side lies the most photographed and viewed island in the world..so we were told. And it is a panoramic view.

If you look at the pic, above, the left side is where all the sharks are..the right side is where the seals are...and that´s where we went swimming!

We saw a lot of penguins today..and fish..and Sally Lightfoot Crabs (SO colourful...bright orange with a blue bit on them!)












And snorkeling...












It was SO beautiful..because we hopped in, and it was a gorgeous day...and after seeing all the fish, some that looked like a cross between a groper and a bullnose shnapper...we then saw the sea lions. At first it was weird..but then they started playing with us..and we swam with them..and watched them dive in between huge masses of coloured fish...

I´ve never swam with sea lions before! I´ve seen them a lot..especially on Seal Is on the Abrolhos..but have never swam with them..it was SO special!

We were still on a huge high after this....

Then..we went for a walk to the back of the Island...and saw Sea Turtles mating!!!! Imagine that! They were huge turtles too.....it is mating season..but to actually see this is just a thrill! They duck under the water..well at least the female does, as if she´s drowning..and the male mounts her!













We ate lunch (fish) on the boat..and headed back for another three and a half hours...

We arrived home late..about 5pm..happy...and watched the sun go down...

And...oh yeah, the seal lion on the chair on the boat in the port was STILL THERE!

It looked so hilarious.......

No wonder... basking in the sun would be what i´d want to do if i were a seal lion too...so funny, there were a couple of his mates swimming about as if to say..c´mon sammy..come play!

We headed home again...and watched the cactus turn from furry brightly irredescent little desert cactus peeking out from the leafless trees...to huge green and tall cactus amongst the rainforest as we got closer to Santa Cruz township...

Dinner was a three course, soup, fish and fruit meal.......

Seems to me..we´re getting healthier and losing weight rather than putting it on..praps because we´re just eating what we´re given rather than buying extra´s!

It´s so nice not to feel we have to ´hunt´ for our food...which is how it feels sometimes when you´re looking for a healthy meal amongst all the restaurants on offer (like in the US!)

We´re happy...and feel so privileged to be here..on the most wondrous of Islands!

NORTH SEYMOUR ISLAND GALAPAGOS

Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos Islands, Ecuador (where we stayed)
NORTH SEYMOUR ISLAND (where we cruised)



We met the group at breakfast at 7am and heard what was the plan for today. One thing we did know was we wanted to go to the Charles Darwin Scientific Research Centre to learn more about the research he did on the Island. Especially after the assault on our senses as we peered out of the window on the way here to our hotel!

We missed the tour there yesterday because our flight was delayed. We were supposed to be visiting the twin craters as well and of course that got canned as well...we wondered if we could squeeze these tours in on another day..or night..but decided to just feel ourselves around the place first. We also wanted to explore the town because on the bus yesterday we noticed there seemed to be a lot going on there...

Breakfast was fruit and guava juice and buns and eggs and columbian coffee! (nescafe!) ha!

The guide came in and told us we were to be on the bus at 8am to go to North Seymour Island.

So....we quickly scattered...and got on the bus for the hour trip back to Ayora Puerto through the vastly different climates and environments (still can´t believe it!) ready to hop on our boat to the first of our ´cruises´.

Esmeralda 3 was waiting for us at the dock..as were the Blue Footed Boobies and sea lions! Even just being at the port was a fascinating experience! The Blue Footed Boobies were birds that has bright blue feet, dark blue beak, brown wings and a slightly bulbous body...and the literally catch their fish prey by fliging overhead, take aim at the prey, hover, point their beak down while their body is still horizontal and then at a fast powering pace, head down into the water. Three seconds later they bob up with the fish in their mouth! We spent ages just watchihg these birds in action!!!

Here they are...check out the ´taking aim´ shot..cool hey!






















We sailed (and had a fish lunch!) around the islands on the way to North Seymour Island, which is north of Baltra. We came from Santa Cruz as that´s where we were staying.

Just one thing about the cruises..

We decided to stay on the island and have cruises around the different Galapagos Islands ie North Seymour, Bartholomew, Daphne etc each day. The cost for doing it this way was halved and after landing here we are so GLAD this is the way we went. We have the opportunity and the thrill to experience the Santa Cruz Is where we´re staying..and to see the rain forests, deserts etc and to meet different people instead of being confined to a cabin on a boat (We´ve seen mini ships here!). It worked out really well!

When we landed we were spoilt by seeing pelicans, sea lions, lots of birds and the iguanas...marine and land iguana´s..oh, that is a sight to see!

These little creatures look like dinosaurs!! And we have some great pics of them!
Doesn´t he look like King of the Island!!!!!!














The mangrove areas surrounding North Seymour Is were great to view the Blue Footed Boobies...and we spent a long time watching them. There are also the Red Footed Boobie as well....and as you can imagine, they have bright RED feet...but are not as prolific as the Blue Footed species.

There are also lost of Frigate birds as well..these birds blow up the underside of their beaks to attract the ladies....hehe And talk about being able to see it from WAY OFF!
What does it look like??















I tell you, after this..Greg and i have surely become keen bird watchers!! (Greg always was of course..hehe)

We were really lucky on this island to have 4 girls accompany us who were studying in Ecuador from the US. They were so gorgeous! And took pics of us so they could show their ¨Translation Teacher´ that they were actually ´working´ whilst being on holiday...with us as their students!

Was so funny too..because the translation from Spanish to English was pretty funny when they were talking about all the different animals´sex lives.......!

We saw the Black Sea Turtle and some little ¨Darwin Finches¨as well...

After finishing the loop, we returned to the boat for a fish lunch and headed to Bachas Beach where we disembarked on a rubber dinghy to the Island (part of Santa Cruz Island). Here we walked on a sand trail to a salt water lagoon where we saw a Pink Flamingo which was quite thrilling!

We got back to the port and ´home´to our hotel late and after dinner plopped into bed and slept like logs. The Island air got to us!

We still have´nt organised seeing the Charles Darwin Centre..nor learned much about the Galapagos Islands! Except that all i can say is...SEEING IS BELIEVING!!!!! NB Went through the incredible landscape home again and just looked at it in awe...

Why does it change so much?

The trees have literally adapted to the environment...........just like the iguana´s that adapted to the land from the sea.....

Arrived on the GALAPAGOS ISLANDS!

Day 273

Las Ninfas, Santa cruz Island, Galapagos Islands, Ecuador, South America

After our very sound sleep at the Best Western in Guayaquil we woke up to a miserable breakfast! (How can Best Western Hotels differ so much? Or are we just getting used to breakfasts in South America being next to superb?) It consisted of a bun and jam....and that was it! Not that we need anything more spectacular, because we really need to start going easy on our diets...

The lady that picked us up from the airport yesterday was there to meet us at 9am and off we went to the airport..

And that´s when the fun began.

The Galapagos flights were delayed!

All the announcements were in Spanish (we must do some more practice with our Spanish!) and so we were not sure whether we were lining up for the Quito flight or the Baltra flight! IN the end..we just lined up for anything that came..and whatever we were lining up for didn´t come..because an hour later, we were still lined up!

The only other tourists were a mob of obnoxious Americans who pushed in and decided they were God´s gift to the universe....the rest were Spanish looking and speaking. Weird, because we thought it was such a tourist place to go. But we were wrong, there were not many at all..and we were smugly pleased about that!

After i decided to remedy the fact that the American tourists got ahead of everyone...and go to the guy and point and try to get my message across, with the support of the spanish people that were all waiting in front of us..AND THEM...we were told the plane was two hours late.

We took our space in the line (glaring at the pushers iners) and then..walah, out of nowhere came someone calling our name and getting us through the crowds to check in...(where were they in the beginning?)

Not that that really made anything any easier..because we still had to wait. But it was nice to get in front of those who pushed in!!!! Half my face smiled at them and the other half sympathised with the other´s who were still waiting and were originally in front of us!

The proposed two hour late comment turned into five hours late...

At THREE OCLOCK we were told we could go through the boarding gate...

And we ended up waiting in the boarding lounge until 4pm when they finally said we were boarding......

At 4.20 and after a HUGE headache (literally..i think i was dehydrated!) we boarded the plane to Baltra..and arrived one and a half hours later. All day for 1 1/2 hours! Would have been quicker to swim! We had to turn the clocks back an hour because the Galapagos Islands are an hour behind the mainland Eucador. So it was 6pm when we arrived...but 5pm by their time.

What was really weird, was when we arrived in Baltra everyone on the plane clapped. I always find this unnerving...

After arriving in Baltra we hopped on a bus (no joke, it was like a sardine can full of us litle fish!) and fifteen minutes later we arrived at the Baltra port and got loaded into a boat that took us to Puerto Ayora which is the port on Santa Cruz Island.

Then we caught another bus...and we were atonished by the climate..and the environment! No wonder Darwin was inspired to formulate his evolutionary theories here! When we were near the shore..there were trees that were completely leafless....and the climate was hot and dry...and there were cactus everywhere!

The further we drove...the more rain foresty it got!! The leaves were dense...the soil was black and volcanic..and there it was raining!

It was the ODDEST thing!!! That hour drive was about the most fascinating drive we´ve had..we kept looking out the window to see differnt environments......just incredible!! We kept taking pictures..and the view kept changing. We loved it!

There was no falling asleep on that hour´s bus journey! (As i usually would on a bus!)

We arrived at the hotel Las Ninfas at 7.45pm pm and checked in, giving all our tickets and tour information to reception! (silly move!)

Dinner was served straight away..and that´s when we met the rest of the group we were to be on tour with....and all spoke...spanish!

We were the only lucky tourists!

We wondered if we would just be spending the time sightseeing and not learning anything about anything due to the language barrier!

We wished we knew more Spanish!!!!!!!

We didn´t really know what was in store..except that breakfast was at 7am!