Pages

Thursday, 15 November 2007

AIR STRIKE IN PUERTO MALDONADO!!!












Day 257

Puerto Maldonado, Peru

We were awoken at 5am but our guide lightly knocking on our wall (there's no door, only cloths)...after a heavy, sound sleep...

And decided to give the cold shower a miss and having one last night!

We donned our muddy wellies for the last time..and met our guide in the lobby for our boat ride and last trek into the amazon jungle to see the toucans...

And even though we didn't see the toucans..we loved the walk. Just to be there, to smell the freshness and to really breathe...is such a privilege.

We breakfasted on our porrige, fruit, eggs and toast...before going back to our rooms and packing our gear for our minibus ride back to Cusco. It was a bit sad farewelling our friends..but also exciting to think we were off to Cusco, to acclimatise for our Machu Picchu trek.

The boat ride was uneventful....the bus ride was uneventful...checking in for our flight to Cusco was uneventful....going through customs and immigration was uneventful...

In fact it was quite pleasant! We sat in the airport with our Nashville friend (who'd met Johnny Cash and George Johnson!!!) and then boarded....while leaving them behind to board the next flight...

BUT. After going through the boarding at the designated boarding time...11.40am...then waiting for an hour with Barb and Trish....we decided things were getting a bit slow.

Then our guide Ronoldo..from the Lodge arrived to talk with us (being that he could speak English so well) and......told us...

The plane we were to catch..did not arrive from Cusco!

There was a strike on in Cusco!!!

So...we were ushered out of the boarding lounge..back onto the mini bus..with about 20 others that were in the same predicament..and sent to a local hotel, here in Puerto Maldonado!!!!

So...here we are.....staying here overnight, waiting for the strike to end! The hotel is quaint, still in the Amazon Jungle..and we can hear all the noises of the birds, frogs, monkeys.....its actually very peaceful and beautiful!

And..there's electricity, hot water and..internet!

We hope we do leave to Cusco tomorrow..because we want to acclimatise and we feel we need the three days to do this before the high altitudes of Machu Picchu...

So..we wait. And we will see!

AMAZON MEDICINES and REMEDIES....

Still Day 256...

AMAZON JUNGLE...

After lunch we had a rest..but there's not much rest for the wicked!

At 3.30pm We donned our wellies once again headed out to the Medicine Lodge up Rio Tambupata River in the long boat which took about 40 minutes paddling and another 20 minutes walking on a bumpy muddy trail in the jungle through trees that had roots spiralling around them..and wet leaves flapping in our faces.

When we reached the Medicine Lodge we met up with interpreters who explained plants that had medicinal properties. A few of the ones i remember are the Cordoncillo (piper elonggatun).....which we were all given a sample of. It looked like a little piece of green twig..and we were all told to chew at once!!! And within seconds the bitter taste numbed our tongues!!

I suddently wondered whether it had antibiotic qualities that i'm known to be allergic to..it had such a dramatic affect!

But! It turned out..It was an anaesthetic plant!!! Gosh!!! It really did anaethatise our mouths..and throats..it felt like it'd be permanent..!

The next one, Para Para (abuta grandifolia) had the guide giving us a spanish example of how the long thin green plant bent over..then bounced back, upight!!!!

It was a viaga plant!

Next we moved on to the Picramnia Lineata plant and were given about five leaves to crush.....and soon...our hands turned bright burgundy!!!!! It was like a cochineal...a colouring!!! We had it all over our hands! It was amazing!!

Other plants included the Unadegato (uncaria tomentosa) which is a cat's claw, and the Lanacana morado (lostus.sp) which is like a purple dye and helps diarrohea and fever.

Ajao. Sacha (pseudocalymma allageua) is a garlic tasting leaf used for epilepsy..and as a mossie repellent!

And...Chuchuhuasi (heisteria pallida) is used for colds...rhumetism, arthritis and tropical leprosy..

It's interesting that they mix the drink, pisco, with a lot of these plants to make the medicines. The guides did supply the mixes as well...and i dilligently wrote these down..but i will add this later!

There was one that took my interest..and that was the Ayahuasc (banisteriopsis laapi)which is a master plant and good for parkinsons apparently...

This particular plant, along with Cha Cruna (psicotria veridis) are plants which the spiritual healer, called a Shaman, use as a spiritual healer for people who go to him. There is a detox program that accompanies the medicinal plants and is great for a person's wellbeing. A lot of the local people in the jungle use this.

After trying out the various plants..and being amazed by the instant effect they had..we met the Shaman. Centro Nape was found in 1986 by the Federation of Nature by the people of Madre De Dios because of subsistence and remoteness of their lifestyle which made occidental medicine too expensive to import. The Nape indigenous people came t be treated by these natural medicines that are prepared by the Shaman...

We tried some of the medicines...at least i did...trust me (like the termite tasting) i thought...while in Rome....

And ohhhhh

The Ayahuasc knocked my socks off. I did feel like i was hallucinating..and wondered whether the malaria tablets and this...mix very well...

But..i did make it onto boat..after falling over twice..Strong stuff!!!!!!

And then i had a pisco sour.....to top it off!

And we chatted all night with our new friends, listening to the chorus of the jungle....

BLISS.

The howling monkeys...howled again last night..and the bats came to visit!!!

Tomorrow...5am wake up...to go back to the mudlick to see if we can see the toucans..

TRAILS IN THE AMAZON













Day 256

Lodge, Amazon Basin, Puerto Maldonado. Peru

Up at 4am to the sounds of the howling monkeys! It sounded awesome! How often do you wake up to that...and the sound of a wood pecker pecking at the tree just outside our window..or expanse of open space that we looked out of our room..like an open verandah.

Its such a great idea to have a lodge with rooms that are open like that, it really does feel you are in the depths of the forest, truly experiencing the noises and soudns and sense of open space of the jungle. And of course to have cold showers and get dressed by the candlelight!

This is the place where naturalists come to do research and its a botanists dream! For us its just the fact that we are here, experiencing such a unique paridise.

Breakfast was early because it was to be a long naturalist day...and it was fresh, again, fruit and homemade fare. So yummy. A bit like when we were at the Makutsi Game park in South Africa, simliar surroundings, with the dining in the open where you could dine close to wildlife.

The jungle walks are such a highlight. The aim is to search for the monkeys, birds and in the river the cayman, giant otters and pirranhas.

Trailing through the desert was a wonder. Seeing all the things, pointed out by our expert naturalist guides was such a thrill. They pointed out so many kinds of birds and were so excited to see them, as if for the first time!

We arrived at the canoes, about 14 of us and paddled upriver, arriving at a lake and whilst there we spotted macaws, smooth blackbilled ani's, hoatzin which looked like scraggly little things, black donacobius, wattled jacuna's which were the funniest looking birds..with long slender legs and HUGE feet!!! They use them in the marshes and the locals call them, 'jesus birds' because they look like they're walking on water!!!

I really felt the botanic in me arise when we were were looking at all this wildlife on the lake. I wished i'd bought our little binoculars to bird watch! I've often head of people birdwatching and thought...hmm...but after this, i can see why the excitement!! We were there so long watching them we could almost see their personalities starting to resonate!

Then...a huge osprey came flying overhead. The wingspan must have been about a metre. So majestic...reminded me of the Abrolhos when the ospreys and sea eagles would perch on top of the antennas. Actually the sound of the birds in the morning had that reminder as well..i thought it sounded familiar and wondered why..and it's because it did remind me of the natural bird sounds at the Islands.

After the intense birdwatching Carole, the other guide, got out the cane fishing poles. We were going to go pirahna fishing! I was joking when i mentioned the pirahna's but they weren't!

We cast out the poles with a hook and meat attached....

And..we caught pirahnas!! They were black and yellow bellied ones. We were instructed to yank when we felt them bite!

Of course, my experiences of fishing were at the Abrolhos Islands...and i was used to catching large groper or snapper at the islands and being told this...but there was always a weight at the other end..Sooooo when i went to yank the line up....with the piranha on the other end...i flipped it out of the water so high it flapped over the boat to the other side!

And flipped off!

So...

I tried and tried again. Others were catching fish..and i hadnt...nor had Greg!

Finally we both did catch a pirahna each..and felt satisfied wed had our pirahna fishing experience...and then took all our photos with these vicious amazonian man eating fish....

But really..They're quite small, but yes, they do have sharp teeth, and do eat meat! So much fun!

After the canoe ride we headed back to the trail and found more exciting wildlife to observe in the jungle.

I even had my taste of termites!! They tasted like bitter carrots!!! Had to try it!

After we got back we went back to our rooms...rested...and went for another jungle walk to the Mud Lick to watch for toucans and monkeys. We didnt spot the toucans, again, but did see the monkeys scrambling up and down the trees. Such an overpowering feeling of feeling akin with nature enveloped me here...

We saw these incredible little wax tailed insects that looked like catfish nestled in the trees..and so many other things..snake skins...bazra tree and the cotton...oh just everything. So glorious.

Lunch was healthy and spicy...ohlala..the food is SO healthy! Im loving it!!! Gregs feeling good for it too..so we both feel we're on track again!

We've met such a diverse group of people. Trish and Barb are from Sydney and are in the late to early fifties and have trekked before, in New Zealand and Nepal. They're the only other one's on our tour..with two others to join us when we go to Cusco on Wednesday. Six of us all up doing the 16 day tour with Machu Picchu trek included. We've bonded with Barb and Trish because they're on the same tour.

At the lodge we've also met others. There are two British girls who are doing the round the world trip together with one of the girls parents. Emily. The parents stayed in Cusco but they've all taken a year off to do this trip and plan on working in NZ and Australia for 6 months.

We also met a hillbilly English pair that now live in Toronto. Hes a part time songwriter so weve learned a lot about the Nashville songwriters.

Such an ecclectic group..and sitting around at meal times gives us time to mix..and also on the treks...when we're not having to be silent waiting for the animals!

If anything, it's just so nice to be with people and wake up and they're there...like the family we haven't had for almost nine months!!!!

AMAZON JUNGLE

Day 255

Puerto Maldonado, Peru, South America

Day two of tour

We finally met out fellow travellers in the lobby of the Hotel Boulevard at 7am and also met our contact in Lima who ferried us to Lima Airport ready to check in for our flight to Puerto Maldonado, via Cusco. It was a smooth trip although we were separated in our seats..but that was ok, because somehow Greg and I both ended up with window seats, which was one of the things that was written on the trip notes, so we could have the view of the Andes from our window!

And they were spectacular..such incredible brown rolling valley's and desert crevices and deep within we could see villages nestled in between the great expanse of the Andes.

We refuelled at Cusco and headed towards the Puerto Maldonado, where we were to go to the Amazon Basin. The view from the window changed..and we saw deep jungle...

It was quite breathtaking.

When we arrived both in Cusco to refuel and in Puerto Maldonado the whole plane clapped, which was a bit disconcerting!

We were met at the airport there by our Guide, Rodolfo calling out our names amongst the scramble of people, guides and luggage. Trish and Barb were busily getting the attention of the tour people and had successfully also found where they were.

They had a mini bus waiting so we loaded up our baggage and headed for Headquarters where those who chose to could leave their luggage and only take what they needed for the two days we were to be in the jungle.

We decided to take our back and front packs, choosing to keep all our worldly possessions together! We didnt't want to lose our luggage!

Headquarters wasn't very far, but there we met a gorgeous little girl who decided to tag alongside us. I took her picture, so cute!

Then we headed for our Lodge. The little shacks on the way were reminiscent of third world countries. After being in Lima we felt this was a huge contrast. Such a poor place, but such wonderful scenery. A plant, Helicnia, was scattered around looking so majestic. They reminded me of the stralitizia (Bird of Paridise)..so pretty.

The tumbling, bumpy road took about an hour..and as we entered the Lodge we thought it just looked so tropical and lush. We could see all the Amazon birds, that we had only seen in David Attenborough shows! Screamers, terns, macaws and kingfishers. We were told this was the area where the toucans were abundant as well, although we didnt see them straight away.

Then, the boat ride to the Lodge on the Rio Tambupata. It was like a long boat with seats across from each other. We were told to put on Life Rafts (that didnt do up!) and we thought their sense of safety was good! We did wonder what instigated this! The boat driver was a gorgeous peruvian boy who had the biggest, widest smile. We wondered whether there were piranha's in the river!

As soon as we arrived our activities were organised and the first one was to go for a jungle walk to the canopy where we were to observe the bird life from a tower. It was 4.15pm. One of the things the guide asked for was headlights or torches and we thought, yes we have those! (Thanks Alena and Mum for these gifts before we left!) Theyve come in so useful!

Due to the lack of organisation we didnt have a list of things to bring so we were gratful we had the insecticide from Africa and the headlights and torches and things for a safari otherwise we would have come not knowing what to bring.

The room we were allocated was a jungle room. With an open area where we could view the jungle trees. No electricity, no hot water. Candles only. Very practical rather than romantic seeing the adjoining rooms were not closed off...there were only rafters!

Preparing for the first walk through the jungle was uncomfortable. We had to fit wellies and that was an initial challenge as i couldnt fit my orthodics in them! Finally i went for the men's shoes again!

Once we got used to the slush and uneven ground it was ok. I actually started to revel in the walk. So many birds and wildlife and sounds of howling monkeys could ble heard. I felt nostalgic and emotional at the beauty.

The Canopy Tower was 187 steps high. 120feet (37m) and from there we stayed till sunset and watched the toucans flying together as well as a myriad of other wild and very beautiful birds.

This is nature at its perfect best. In the Amazon jungle!

Dinner was fresh, healthy, and we slumbered to bed by 9pm looking forward to a 4am wakeup and a cold shower!!!!

What a day.

I can only say i was in awe of this massively dense and almost secretive forest.

What does it hold within?