Day 116
Inverness
Battle of Colloden and the Jacobites.
We went to the spot where the battle took place today.
From what the Scots say, this is the place that inspired many Scotts to come to Aussie!!! So there you go.....
We think it's also because many British had free passage to Australia after the war (www2) but that's another story.
The Battle of Colloden was just outside Inverness.
It was the battle with the British Troops, (protestant) headed by the Duke of Cumberland against the clans, the jacobites (catholics) and anti protestant, led by Bonny Prince Charlie in 1746.
Seemed eerie really as so many clans got involved and died there.
And the reason why they lost is because they were fighting on flat ground, by mistake because Bonny prince charlie didn't have any war experience and the scots were used to winning using their highland downhill charge which avoided cannon and rifle fire.
Everyone was killed, wives, kids, everyone. By the British. (English)
And so there....a deep hatred of the English began! And still exists...somewhat more jovially and less brutally of course, but it's there!!!
That was our exciting event of the day i tell ya...and it was so 'important' that the two tour guides actually accosted some of us that were trying to escape going on the battlefields and getting out of the bitter cold so we could hear the STORY!!!!!
I was busting to go to the loo....but of course, i had to hear about 'how this event changed history'!!!!!!!!
We recovered from all this to see some cairns thousands of years old. They look a bit like the stones of Stonehenge...and we also..........
CAUGHT NESSIE!!!!!!
As we were leaving our hostel, we drove alongside the 23 miles of Loch Ness and we stopped at it's widest point that was about a mile wide. And we did the HAKU (which the scots say they invented..not the new Zealanders....um...right...)
This was to summons nessie..and was HILARIOUS!!!!! We literally danced like idiots and yelled to the Loch Ness monster to come out.
Apparently Nessie really does come out at times..and although few cyinics (including Greg) believe it's a tourist pull....it was actually first recorded by a doctor who went to his grave swearing that it was a true sighting in 1920. And before that in the 6th Century!! (By a monk!) So...it's to be true lassie....
It was a great 3 days that's for sure. I certainly recommend it to anyone that wants a bit of excitement...there is so much i just can't even remember now to tell about it all..but it was great!
But, most of all..what i really loved about this tour was it was energetic and the guys, Russell and Tom were passionate and animated when they told the stories that they believed to be 'true'..i'm not sure they were tho!!!!
Read Robbie Burns biography as i was desperate to learn more about him and found a book published by the Scottish Histories Collection. Some of his poems are so RAUNCHY and erotic. What was Grandma C reading???? His life story was fascinating i've got to say. I'm glad i had a book that interpreted his poems and letters tho..i wouldn't have understood a word otherwise!!!!
Talking of books..I also exchanged The Island about the leper colony on Spinolonga, off Crete (Hislop) for a new book too! Called Geographers Library by Jon Fasman (Hostels are great for book exchanges!
We also listened to some brillant music while we were on the bus, having travelled a fair distance up to the isle of skye. Probably did about 200 km's a day. They even played Monty Python's Life of Brian and Meaning of life.
Which reminded me what the meaning of life is.
To enjoy! And although it's ok to be contemplative..it's also ok to just HAVE FUN! And to 'do' this holiday because, as Susan says, 'we can'..and because there's a time for everything and everyone. It was so good to be reminded of this....
Once again..it was time to say goodbye to our fellow travellers and get back to our accomodation..
Ireland tomorrow...
Can't wait!
Hope everyone's well....we're glad to be back 'home' (in Edinburgh)...and glad to be able to say hi to you guys again!!!
PS Thanks for the messages from you girls who made me jealous seeing Human Nature!! Awww.......Big hugs to you caza and suziewoozie!! Also great to hear from you Susan....and your brilliant new job!! I can just see you doing that, it would suit you right down to the ground!! Helena..enjoy Bali! Sun! I wish i could have some of that!!!! See you when you get back!! (I'll miss your emails!!!!)
Hugs to you all xxxx And especially to you mummy bummy :-) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Tuesday, 26 June 2007
ISLE OF SKYE and MEETING HAMISH!
Day 115
Morags Lodge, Fort Augustus
Scottish Highlands
Isle of Skye
Language spoken: 30% Gaelic! Street and all signs in Gaelic, then English!
We spent the day on the Isle of Skye today which was very special.
The scenery is spectacular. We went as far as Kilt Rock.
We saw..or rather, didn't see, Mount Ben Nevis as it was so foggy. It claims lives every year because of the fog, or cloud.
To those who know John and wondered why he named his boats the way he did. Well, it's because he is from a Scottish heritage (these heritages run really deep as i said) and Ben Ledi is a mountain in Scotland. His second boat one was named Braveheart which is after William Wallace, or really, if you learn the 'true' story it's named after Robert the Bruce who was the real brave heart as his had his heart cut out and thrown at the enemy(literally)- another long Scottish folk story!. After his Scottish roots!
The most exciting thing on the way to Skye though, was meeting Hamish.
We were told he was the biggest and the ugliest and most hairy scotsman we'd ever meet. Russel warned us. He really did. And some of us were even a bit worried..but wondering who the heck we were going to meet!
And he wasn't ugly at all.
He was quite beautiful. I thought so anyway. So handsome. I didn't think of Scotsman as handsome until i met him...I could almost forsake Greg for him!!!!!
His name is Hamish McKay Denovan. Born on Mull and educated too.....He has a 1st class honours degree in Bullocks!!
And he is a Island BULL!!!!!!!!
hahaa...
Talk about gorgeous..and ugly at the same time. Wish i could show you the photos now!
We called in at the Eileen Donan Castle which i told you about in the last blog (mcraes). This castle was used in Highlander, the movie with Sean Connery.
And also learned saw peat being harvested onto pellets where it's dried for six months and used in central heating furnaces or boilers. Apparently after a million years or so it turns into coal!
Lunch was at a deli as it was Sunday and everything was closed....
Went into the Urqhart Castle which overlooks the wateer of Loch Ness and is surrounded by the most stunning of scenery! This castle was actually one of Scotlands largest castles..but now parts of it is in ruins.
Apparently this castle was very prominent in the Scottish struggle for independence and came under control of Robert the Bruce after he became King of Scots. In the 15th and 16th centuries the castle and glen were often raided from the west by the ambitious MacDonald Lordss of the Isles.
Such a fascinating history. I love the old castles...i can just imagine the people living in them..and the battles that took place...
What a day. We were exhausted and VERY HUNGRY by the time we got back to Fort Augustus...and to our lodge...
And....we had....
HAGGIS for dinner. Haggis in my mind was like a sausage type of dish, made of sheep intestines...which sounds pretty gross. And i'd had it before at the Robbie Burns Day we had at Burns Beach and i remember it as being spicy but not that palatable really. But the haggis we had for dinner was really yummy..the texture was like cous cous and the colour was black and grey (not very pretty) but it looked ok..and they served it in a dish to put over a baked potato so it was GOOD!!!!!
I didn't have seconds...nor did Greg! So.......altho it was great tasting, and looked ok considering....it was...intestines..and just the thought of it just turns me off...but we tried it. It's Scotland's national dish afterall and they're very proud of it (and of everything else Scottish i might add!). It's on the menu in most pubs you go into. The scotch on the menu was nice :-)
Got to know the others on the tour during the night. So many travellers with so many stories. It was a great night.
Morags Lodge, Fort Augustus
Scottish Highlands
Isle of Skye
Language spoken: 30% Gaelic! Street and all signs in Gaelic, then English!
We spent the day on the Isle of Skye today which was very special.
The scenery is spectacular. We went as far as Kilt Rock.
We saw..or rather, didn't see, Mount Ben Nevis as it was so foggy. It claims lives every year because of the fog, or cloud.
To those who know John and wondered why he named his boats the way he did. Well, it's because he is from a Scottish heritage (these heritages run really deep as i said) and Ben Ledi is a mountain in Scotland. His second boat one was named Braveheart which is after William Wallace, or really, if you learn the 'true' story it's named after Robert the Bruce who was the real brave heart as his had his heart cut out and thrown at the enemy(literally)- another long Scottish folk story!. After his Scottish roots!
The most exciting thing on the way to Skye though, was meeting Hamish.
We were told he was the biggest and the ugliest and most hairy scotsman we'd ever meet. Russel warned us. He really did. And some of us were even a bit worried..but wondering who the heck we were going to meet!
And he wasn't ugly at all.
He was quite beautiful. I thought so anyway. So handsome. I didn't think of Scotsman as handsome until i met him...I could almost forsake Greg for him!!!!!
His name is Hamish McKay Denovan. Born on Mull and educated too.....He has a 1st class honours degree in Bullocks!!
And he is a Island BULL!!!!!!!!
hahaa...
Talk about gorgeous..and ugly at the same time. Wish i could show you the photos now!
We called in at the Eileen Donan Castle which i told you about in the last blog (mcraes). This castle was used in Highlander, the movie with Sean Connery.
And also learned saw peat being harvested onto pellets where it's dried for six months and used in central heating furnaces or boilers. Apparently after a million years or so it turns into coal!
Lunch was at a deli as it was Sunday and everything was closed....
Went into the Urqhart Castle which overlooks the wateer of Loch Ness and is surrounded by the most stunning of scenery! This castle was actually one of Scotlands largest castles..but now parts of it is in ruins.
Apparently this castle was very prominent in the Scottish struggle for independence and came under control of Robert the Bruce after he became King of Scots. In the 15th and 16th centuries the castle and glen were often raided from the west by the ambitious MacDonald Lordss of the Isles.
Such a fascinating history. I love the old castles...i can just imagine the people living in them..and the battles that took place...
What a day. We were exhausted and VERY HUNGRY by the time we got back to Fort Augustus...and to our lodge...
And....we had....
HAGGIS for dinner. Haggis in my mind was like a sausage type of dish, made of sheep intestines...which sounds pretty gross. And i'd had it before at the Robbie Burns Day we had at Burns Beach and i remember it as being spicy but not that palatable really. But the haggis we had for dinner was really yummy..the texture was like cous cous and the colour was black and grey (not very pretty) but it looked ok..and they served it in a dish to put over a baked potato so it was GOOD!!!!!
I didn't have seconds...nor did Greg! So.......altho it was great tasting, and looked ok considering....it was...intestines..and just the thought of it just turns me off...but we tried it. It's Scotland's national dish afterall and they're very proud of it (and of everything else Scottish i might add!). It's on the menu in most pubs you go into. The scotch on the menu was nice :-)
Got to know the others on the tour during the night. So many travellers with so many stories. It was a great night.
FORT AUGUSTUS and the LOCH NESS
Day 114
*************************************
HAPPY BIRTHDAY MORAG AND NASS!!!! BIG HUGS TO YOU BOTH!!!!! xxxxxxxxxx
*************************************
Scottish Highlands
Fort Augustus
Saturday
We left the Euro Hostel with our packs and ventured off to the Haggis Office to go on our SKYE tour. Our massive group (about 100 people all standing in the rain out the front of the office) at first all looked pretty young 9in their 20's) and our only knowledge of the 3 day tour was that we needed a raincoat, warm clothes and an umbrella. And that we'd be staying in dorms. I was dreading it a bit really.....
But what the heck. The tour was two for one at £89 so what was there to lose?
Once we got separated into our tours i started to relax a bit more. There were a few people our age, not that it matters, because we're finding the young people are really great and seem to like talking with us and if they're feeling homesick they enjoy being around us..especially when we say we have four kids at home their age!
So the group was looking great. Then we met Tom and Russel, our tour guides, and talk about ideal for the job. They were a hilarious pair. They were so animated as they talked and so passionate, if not slightly biased, about Scotland.
Our first day getting to Port Augustus was adventurous. We packed a huge amount in, seeing the castles, scenery, going on walks, learning about the stories of William Walace (the inspiration for Braveheart) and going for a 'wee walk' again!
The scenery in Scotland..especially up here, is just so green and gorgeous. Mind you, it'd want to be, as they have so much rain! It's mid summer now, and it's rained every day we've been in Scotland. Imagine what it must be like in Winter!! And the days are so long as well...the sun comes up at 4am and goes down about 10.30pm!!! In winter they only have about 4 or 5 hours of sunlight so it makes up for it doesn't it!?
We also learned a lot about the Scottish clans. In particular the CAMBPELLS.
The Campbells were so hated!!!!! And they were so brutal!!!!! Apparently up in the highlands, in a place called Glencoe they literally killed off the clan of the McDonalds after being ordered by the Governor at the time to do so...and they did it in such a sneaky way...by asking if they could stay in their house..so they were given hospitality by the McDonalds then killed them by slitting their throats in the dead of the night!!!
After that there was complete rivalry between the two clans. The Campbells were hated basically because they were always on the winning side. Often in battles putting one son on one side and another son on another side so they always had a Campbell on the winning side!!!
There was even a local Scottish pub, open today, run by the McDonalds which we passed, that said 'No English, No Tribals and No Campbells!' And apparently an american guy went to check in there recently and when he gave his name as a Campbell, the owner literally said, 'Sorry, you can't stay!!'......
Funny hey.....that the rivalry runs so deep. The Scottish seem to keep their grudges forever. We saw it over and over again..with the McRae's and the McKenzies as well when we went to Eilean Donan Castle on Skye.
Not good to be a Campbell in the Highlands of Scotland!!!!! After that i kept seeing all the scottish links to this name, a name of my grandmoter!!!!!
We arrived at our 'logdings' that night. And it was gorgeous. And...it was called Morag's Lodge!!!! I couldn't believe it. After thinking of Morag all day and knowing it was her birthday and couldn't get reception as we were travelling we end up staying in a lodge of her name!! I messaged her to tell her this....so exciting. I know she has Scottish heritage on her father's side...so there's lots to talk about when we get home.
We found we were in a four bed room with another Australian couple who were really nice. Pat and Desiree.
And put down our stuff and went exploring.......cos, we head Nessie might be out!!!! Funny too...i always imagined the Loch Ness to be this huge river..or Loch as they call it. And yet...it's not that wide. We walked down and saw it was only about 50m wide from where we stood. It was all fuzzy too..and smokey looking....very good weather for Nessie to appear.....
Whoooo.......
We took pics..and of the river system the way it has gates on the levels of the river...so fascinating. Called Locks apparently.
Nessie did appear......................but it was a metal one..hehe
When we got back Russel told us we were going to get a glimse of Nessie tomorrow, when we are on our way to Skye.....can't wait! :-)
After a dinner of pasta and salad we headed out to a 'real scottish hut' to learn how to fold a quilt..and to see what was underneath!!!!! Guess what IS underneath??? I'm going to give more secrets away....NOTHING! Nup. Don't wear a thing under and you're nto a man if you do! So there you go.
We did learn that the Scottish kilt is made out of one piece of tartan material (that is different depending on the clan) that is as long as the length of a room!
Such a simple way they do it too..and the way a woman used to wear her clothing was interesting too.
It was a great night with this old scotsman telling us all the folk stories...
After that we headed back to the hostel and watched Braveheart!!!!!! (Again, the films, according to the locals that know, is not entirely correct..but they all say that!
What a day..and night. We slept like logs. And didn't care about sharing a room with anyone else....so that was an accomplishment in itself!
Tomorrow..Island of Skye..
*************************************
HAPPY BIRTHDAY MORAG AND NASS!!!! BIG HUGS TO YOU BOTH!!!!! xxxxxxxxxx
*************************************
Scottish Highlands
Fort Augustus
Saturday
We left the Euro Hostel with our packs and ventured off to the Haggis Office to go on our SKYE tour. Our massive group (about 100 people all standing in the rain out the front of the office) at first all looked pretty young 9in their 20's) and our only knowledge of the 3 day tour was that we needed a raincoat, warm clothes and an umbrella. And that we'd be staying in dorms. I was dreading it a bit really.....
But what the heck. The tour was two for one at £89 so what was there to lose?
Once we got separated into our tours i started to relax a bit more. There were a few people our age, not that it matters, because we're finding the young people are really great and seem to like talking with us and if they're feeling homesick they enjoy being around us..especially when we say we have four kids at home their age!
So the group was looking great. Then we met Tom and Russel, our tour guides, and talk about ideal for the job. They were a hilarious pair. They were so animated as they talked and so passionate, if not slightly biased, about Scotland.
Our first day getting to Port Augustus was adventurous. We packed a huge amount in, seeing the castles, scenery, going on walks, learning about the stories of William Walace (the inspiration for Braveheart) and going for a 'wee walk' again!
The scenery in Scotland..especially up here, is just so green and gorgeous. Mind you, it'd want to be, as they have so much rain! It's mid summer now, and it's rained every day we've been in Scotland. Imagine what it must be like in Winter!! And the days are so long as well...the sun comes up at 4am and goes down about 10.30pm!!! In winter they only have about 4 or 5 hours of sunlight so it makes up for it doesn't it!?
We also learned a lot about the Scottish clans. In particular the CAMBPELLS.
The Campbells were so hated!!!!! And they were so brutal!!!!! Apparently up in the highlands, in a place called Glencoe they literally killed off the clan of the McDonalds after being ordered by the Governor at the time to do so...and they did it in such a sneaky way...by asking if they could stay in their house..so they were given hospitality by the McDonalds then killed them by slitting their throats in the dead of the night!!!
After that there was complete rivalry between the two clans. The Campbells were hated basically because they were always on the winning side. Often in battles putting one son on one side and another son on another side so they always had a Campbell on the winning side!!!
There was even a local Scottish pub, open today, run by the McDonalds which we passed, that said 'No English, No Tribals and No Campbells!' And apparently an american guy went to check in there recently and when he gave his name as a Campbell, the owner literally said, 'Sorry, you can't stay!!'......
Funny hey.....that the rivalry runs so deep. The Scottish seem to keep their grudges forever. We saw it over and over again..with the McRae's and the McKenzies as well when we went to Eilean Donan Castle on Skye.
Not good to be a Campbell in the Highlands of Scotland!!!!! After that i kept seeing all the scottish links to this name, a name of my grandmoter!!!!!
We arrived at our 'logdings' that night. And it was gorgeous. And...it was called Morag's Lodge!!!! I couldn't believe it. After thinking of Morag all day and knowing it was her birthday and couldn't get reception as we were travelling we end up staying in a lodge of her name!! I messaged her to tell her this....so exciting. I know she has Scottish heritage on her father's side...so there's lots to talk about when we get home.
We found we were in a four bed room with another Australian couple who were really nice. Pat and Desiree.
And put down our stuff and went exploring.......cos, we head Nessie might be out!!!! Funny too...i always imagined the Loch Ness to be this huge river..or Loch as they call it. And yet...it's not that wide. We walked down and saw it was only about 50m wide from where we stood. It was all fuzzy too..and smokey looking....very good weather for Nessie to appear.....
Whoooo.......
We took pics..and of the river system the way it has gates on the levels of the river...so fascinating. Called Locks apparently.
Nessie did appear......................but it was a metal one..hehe
When we got back Russel told us we were going to get a glimse of Nessie tomorrow, when we are on our way to Skye.....can't wait! :-)
After a dinner of pasta and salad we headed out to a 'real scottish hut' to learn how to fold a quilt..and to see what was underneath!!!!! Guess what IS underneath??? I'm going to give more secrets away....NOTHING! Nup. Don't wear a thing under and you're nto a man if you do! So there you go.
We did learn that the Scottish kilt is made out of one piece of tartan material (that is different depending on the clan) that is as long as the length of a room!
Such a simple way they do it too..and the way a woman used to wear her clothing was interesting too.
It was a great night with this old scotsman telling us all the folk stories...
After that we headed back to the hostel and watched Braveheart!!!!!! (Again, the films, according to the locals that know, is not entirely correct..but they all say that!
What a day..and night. We slept like logs. And didn't care about sharing a room with anyone else....so that was an accomplishment in itself!
Tomorrow..Island of Skye..
EDINBURGH CASTLE Day & Night
Day 113
Friday 22nd June
Edinburgh, Scotland
Can you believe...we went to Edinburgh Castle and spend the WHOLE afternoon there AND then went back that night.
Is that love and commitment or complete madness?
Or maybe it's just because we thought..when in Scotland, do what the Scots do!
So we did. I adorned my royal stewart scottish beanie, red raincoat with four layers underneath and Greg threw on his 3 layers and off we went..to learn all about the most famous castle in the world!
What an experience. We arrived at 1pm when the cannon blasts. A funny thing about that is everywhere else in Britain (which is the BIG 4 countries, as a guy on the bus told us! - Ireland, Scotland, England and Wales) has their castle cannons go off at 12 o'clock but the Scots thought they'd save a bit of money and have it go off at one o'clock....so they'd save 11 cannon balls each day!!! Now that's enterprise. Or frugality.
We went on a guided tour which we find really good because the guide usually has a grand wee wit..aye..and knows all the inside knowledge..and has great stories...and who doesn't like stories! THEN, after that we got an audio..ok we like the castle!
And the fact that it was built on top of an extinct volcano, with spectacular views across the city, it also has this incredible history attached to it.
We learnt a lot about the Scots and English history..which i won't go into depth with because you'll be wondering what relevance that has to anything (although believe it or not, with all our emigration to Aus it's very relevant but it all makes sense when you're actually standing in the the country clicking everything into place, rather than reading it on a blog!)
My favourite room has to be the royal jewel room where Scotland's crown jewels (or 'Honours') were, including jewels on a case on the wall and a sceptre, crown and shield were positioned in all their glory inside a glass cabinet...BUT....the most appealing and wondrous thing was...
THE STONE WAS THERE!!!!!!! Called The stone of Scone..or.. The STONE OF DESTINY. The coronation seat of Scottish Kings!
It was the stone we didn't see in Westminster Abbey. We saw the space, on the coronation chair that was especially made for it by the English when the English (Edward 1st) stole it. It was the Scots stone that went back to Scotland with Queen Elizabeth's permission (to come back at the next coronation).
AND......
It looked just like a plain old limestone block.
How boring is that. All my grandiose thoughts of this wonderful precious stone was shattered! Honestly.....you don't expect a stone to look so drab when it is so precious.
Anyway, there it sat. Alongside the Scotish crown jewels, in Edinburgh Castle, a precious piece of history and valuable in it's own right. It was so great to see it!!!! The mystery of THE STONE. I wondered what it'd look like. Now we know, and the beauty of it has been shattered.
Isn't that the way sometimes. Our dreams and expectations are often more colourful and fanciful than fact. But that's the illusion isn't it. Or the excitement of dreams and not knowing. But oh, do we feel so much more knowledgeable when we do know. Superior somehow. Geepers. Well maybe i shouldn't go that far. But i certainly felt a sense of knowing 'the secret' of the stone. :-)
That wasn't all that was fascinating in the castle.
There was the tiny St Margaret's Chapel which holds 20 people..so a lot of people like to get married there to reduce the wedding invitation list! (so they say). There's also the Royal Apartments and the Great Hall which was built by James 1V in 1511.
Fascinating is also the Prisons of War there...from the late 18th Century, where sailors from all different countries were captured were locked in underground vaults. Very atmospheric!
And Greg in particular, like the Mon's Meg. The huge cannon there! (apparently among the oldest surviving medieval bombards).
Oh..and the other thing was the Dog Cemetery! Really...there was a special dog cemetery for all the officers and important royal dogs..........cute. Took pics of THAT!
Oh yeah...of course there were the paintings, the pictures of kings and queens and other stuff....
We couldn't get enough.
So when we found out there was to be a 'Ceremony of Installation' of Major General D McDowall that night. Free. So of course we waited for that!
After quickly eating a 'sub of the day' at Subway and filling in another half an hour going into the Church of St Giles which had this amazing inscription to Robert Lois Stevenson. (He wrote Jeckyl and Hyde).
But we scurried back to the castle for the inauguation.
And talk about fascinating. We almost felt like we were at the real mcoy. The Tatoo (which is a huge Scotish extravaganza they have here for two weeks in August, of the best bands in Scotland and costing $1000 a ticket!).
The Band of the Royal Regiment of Scotland came out and played their bagpipes and trumpets, trombones, saxaphones etc which was played so beautifully. As Greg said, he hadn't heard a band that could play the highs and lows so beautifully. They played songs such as Skye Boat Song, Burns on the March, Castle Dangerous and Banks on the Ness. So Scottish. So touching.
After being told, 'No sorry, you can not have a program as you are not a dignitary' we were later given the official program when all the 'important guests' got theres, which actually felt very special.
What i found really funny was the way the Scots Guards came out to March. Before they actually marched there was a main guy that got them all into order. The way he did it was so HILARIOUS. The laughter in the audience couldn't be contained either. They were all lined up in 3 lines..and he'd stand in front of a line and yell, 'number 4' and he'd reshuffle his position, then it'd be 'number 6' 'number 8' then....rest of you! And the rest of the 14 or so men lined up would shuffle along. They looked like penguins!!!! (It was my favourite part of the night....whacky as i am!)
What a lucky night though, to be there for that. We saw the March of the Colours, the Troop and then the arrival of Lord Lyon, who is the Officer of Arms and the Governor.
After that they gave the General the key to the castle, with all his dignitary and 'right royal order' and we just loved it. (The microphone stuffed up which caused as stir which was also funny!!!)
That night we had that warm fuzzy feeling inside..knowing we'd seen a little version of The Tatoo for free!
Off to Skye tomorrow...
Friday 22nd June
Edinburgh, Scotland
Can you believe...we went to Edinburgh Castle and spend the WHOLE afternoon there AND then went back that night.
Is that love and commitment or complete madness?
Or maybe it's just because we thought..when in Scotland, do what the Scots do!
So we did. I adorned my royal stewart scottish beanie, red raincoat with four layers underneath and Greg threw on his 3 layers and off we went..to learn all about the most famous castle in the world!
What an experience. We arrived at 1pm when the cannon blasts. A funny thing about that is everywhere else in Britain (which is the BIG 4 countries, as a guy on the bus told us! - Ireland, Scotland, England and Wales) has their castle cannons go off at 12 o'clock but the Scots thought they'd save a bit of money and have it go off at one o'clock....so they'd save 11 cannon balls each day!!! Now that's enterprise. Or frugality.
We went on a guided tour which we find really good because the guide usually has a grand wee wit..aye..and knows all the inside knowledge..and has great stories...and who doesn't like stories! THEN, after that we got an audio..ok we like the castle!
And the fact that it was built on top of an extinct volcano, with spectacular views across the city, it also has this incredible history attached to it.
We learnt a lot about the Scots and English history..which i won't go into depth with because you'll be wondering what relevance that has to anything (although believe it or not, with all our emigration to Aus it's very relevant but it all makes sense when you're actually standing in the the country clicking everything into place, rather than reading it on a blog!)
My favourite room has to be the royal jewel room where Scotland's crown jewels (or 'Honours') were, including jewels on a case on the wall and a sceptre, crown and shield were positioned in all their glory inside a glass cabinet...BUT....the most appealing and wondrous thing was...
THE STONE WAS THERE!!!!!!! Called The stone of Scone..or.. The STONE OF DESTINY. The coronation seat of Scottish Kings!
It was the stone we didn't see in Westminster Abbey. We saw the space, on the coronation chair that was especially made for it by the English when the English (Edward 1st) stole it. It was the Scots stone that went back to Scotland with Queen Elizabeth's permission (to come back at the next coronation).
AND......
It looked just like a plain old limestone block.
How boring is that. All my grandiose thoughts of this wonderful precious stone was shattered! Honestly.....you don't expect a stone to look so drab when it is so precious.
Anyway, there it sat. Alongside the Scotish crown jewels, in Edinburgh Castle, a precious piece of history and valuable in it's own right. It was so great to see it!!!! The mystery of THE STONE. I wondered what it'd look like. Now we know, and the beauty of it has been shattered.
Isn't that the way sometimes. Our dreams and expectations are often more colourful and fanciful than fact. But that's the illusion isn't it. Or the excitement of dreams and not knowing. But oh, do we feel so much more knowledgeable when we do know. Superior somehow. Geepers. Well maybe i shouldn't go that far. But i certainly felt a sense of knowing 'the secret' of the stone. :-)
That wasn't all that was fascinating in the castle.
There was the tiny St Margaret's Chapel which holds 20 people..so a lot of people like to get married there to reduce the wedding invitation list! (so they say). There's also the Royal Apartments and the Great Hall which was built by James 1V in 1511.
Fascinating is also the Prisons of War there...from the late 18th Century, where sailors from all different countries were captured were locked in underground vaults. Very atmospheric!
And Greg in particular, like the Mon's Meg. The huge cannon there! (apparently among the oldest surviving medieval bombards).
Oh..and the other thing was the Dog Cemetery! Really...there was a special dog cemetery for all the officers and important royal dogs..........cute. Took pics of THAT!
Oh yeah...of course there were the paintings, the pictures of kings and queens and other stuff....
We couldn't get enough.
So when we found out there was to be a 'Ceremony of Installation' of Major General D McDowall that night. Free. So of course we waited for that!
After quickly eating a 'sub of the day' at Subway and filling in another half an hour going into the Church of St Giles which had this amazing inscription to Robert Lois Stevenson. (He wrote Jeckyl and Hyde).
But we scurried back to the castle for the inauguation.
And talk about fascinating. We almost felt like we were at the real mcoy. The Tatoo (which is a huge Scotish extravaganza they have here for two weeks in August, of the best bands in Scotland and costing $1000 a ticket!).
The Band of the Royal Regiment of Scotland came out and played their bagpipes and trumpets, trombones, saxaphones etc which was played so beautifully. As Greg said, he hadn't heard a band that could play the highs and lows so beautifully. They played songs such as Skye Boat Song, Burns on the March, Castle Dangerous and Banks on the Ness. So Scottish. So touching.
After being told, 'No sorry, you can not have a program as you are not a dignitary' we were later given the official program when all the 'important guests' got theres, which actually felt very special.
What i found really funny was the way the Scots Guards came out to March. Before they actually marched there was a main guy that got them all into order. The way he did it was so HILARIOUS. The laughter in the audience couldn't be contained either. They were all lined up in 3 lines..and he'd stand in front of a line and yell, 'number 4' and he'd reshuffle his position, then it'd be 'number 6' 'number 8' then....rest of you! And the rest of the 14 or so men lined up would shuffle along. They looked like penguins!!!! (It was my favourite part of the night....whacky as i am!)
What a lucky night though, to be there for that. We saw the March of the Colours, the Troop and then the arrival of Lord Lyon, who is the Officer of Arms and the Governor.
After that they gave the General the key to the castle, with all his dignitary and 'right royal order' and we just loved it. (The microphone stuffed up which caused as stir which was also funny!!!)
That night we had that warm fuzzy feeling inside..knowing we'd seen a little version of The Tatoo for free!
Off to Skye tomorrow...
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