LEMNOS

Lemnos Island,
Between Lesvos and Samothrki
Greece.
Day 92 - 94

We finally got to Lemnos. On another overnight ferry. This time we were old hat at travelling at night on these ferries and straight away reserved our four seats opposite each other so we could at least grab a few hours of sleep. And we did! We slept. After the previous sleepless night it was a matter of having to. And we didn't know if we were going to be staying or leaving on a boat to Turkey once we got there because we had no plans.

We didn't know what to expect at all. But what we did see was another green island. We later found out it was grain, because the island produces a lot of barley and wheat.

It is also a military base and as we disembarked we saw a lot of military men, military cars and trucks. Reminded us of Lesvos, where there were TANKS everywhere!!! Gosh, what is it with these last two islands we went to...lots of army and heavy military. Scary. Is there going to be a war??

Made us nervous. Especially about going to Turkey.....but hey. When your time's up, it's up. Hey. Hey nothing. We want to be safe!!!!!!

We remembered of course, that it was the island where the Allied forces used as a base in WW1 i guess, of course, it was still is a strategic spot to fight off enemy forces now. So it was obvious it was still a military base.

The first thing we did when we disembarked was to find out if we could get to Turkey from Lemnos. We couldn't. We had to go back to Lesvos to get there, and only on Tuesdays and Thursdays. It was Friday and the boat had already gone. We booked to fly to Athens and then to Isanbul. That was sorted. And safer, we have to say. After the few warnings we've had.

We also found our accomodation in the Port. Port Myrina. A gorgeous hotel too. For 40 Euro a night and overlooking the harbour. We wondered if this was the harbour where Grandpop landed. But he landed in Moudros so it wasn't.

We ate breakfast at the cafe next to the hotel, Cafe Porto. Had omelette that had more of the filling than the egg (Greg and bacon and a bit of egg and i had mushrooms and a bit of egg!) Was yummy. And we found coffee that was exactly what we wanted. Greek coffee is one of this hit and miss things. Pretty terrible most of the time, unlike Italian coffee which was always delicious.

It came with bread too. (We're wondering why we've put on so much weight...it's the oil...it and everything, comes with OIL as well!) And a glass of water. Coffee always has a glass of water with is. A lifesave when the coffee is crap for sure!!!

We hired a car right away so we could start exploring.

Just thinking of Grandpop as we were driving to the Port made me well up. I thought of how he was kicked by a horse as he was attending a wounded Turk on the Palestinian front when his regiment, the 7th Light Horse, went back after the withdrawal from Gallipoli. I thought how he spent his whole life limping and dressing that leg.

I also thought we were lucky to have him as grandfather. That he was one of the men that lived through that Great War.

First place we went to was Moudros. The second port of Lemmos which apparently was the capital at one stage.

When we got there...it was a military port. We drove in and after the warnings of not taking pics etcetc we saw the war memorial from a distance. And wondered what it was...it even had a wreath that had been put there recently.

It was the ANZAC memorial, donated by the Greek Australian International Legal and Medical Conference.

On the top it said, "Australia and Lemnos 1915 - 1916"

It had a map which showed where all the hosptials were located in the bay and where Grandpop worked. (He was attached to the 2nd Stationary Hospital). He was located on the opposite side to Moudros and attended to men in tents that were set up there.

Apparently in February 1915 the Greek Government offered the Allies the island of Lemnos as a base for a naval attack on the Dardanelles. The attack failed and Lemnos became a huge military camp for Allied Troops including the thousands of Australian (ANZACS) preparing for a land attack on the Turkish army entrenched on the Gallipoli Peninsula.

The main base in Moudros was for men who were recovering from wounds or recuperating from the war. But 2000 men (and some women) from the Allied forces, out of the 44,000 that died in Gallipoli, were buried in the two cemeteries that we saw, in Lemnos, in Moudros and in Portianou. It was so sad seeing all the graves. A lot were unknown soldiers. I liked it that it said, "Known to God' though. A lot of Turkish died too. (86,700) A lot of young men and women who had their lives to lead..never lived.

It was a very emotional day looking at that memorial, being glad the ANZACS were recognised, knowing Australians and Greece have huge ties and a good relationship, having lunch in the resturant overlooking the bay, with a whole lot of military men also at the tables (a lot of young military men on Lemnos), and just thinking about Grandpop and the war.

I have so much more to say, and will email you when we get to the UK sis. I am so grateful for all your information. And knowing your interest and love for Grandpop is as strong as my own.

Gallipoli next.......how much can the heart take?

And of course, Gallipoli was also where Grandad's brothers were....

We also visited the castle on Lemnos, saw the WW1 modifications on it (caves and shelters that were fascinating), walked around the old cobblestone town that has old buildings falling down and mostly untouched since built many centuries before.

The one way streets were amazing....small, cobblestoned, too small for two way traffic. So they were one way. Linked. But one way for very small cars. (no trucks!)

But the best part, over the days we were there..was going to the beach. We swam, sunbathed and loved the beaches here. So tranquil. Sand that was almost white. No pebbles. Serence. Lilo's provided. Water was warm like a bath...

Just beautiful. The sunsets equisite.

And so were the cafes overlooking the Aegean..and the castle.

Good memories..